Volare Products EKW-C-3606

I must have cruised George Bredehoft’s wonderful Volare Products website a 100 times before but in all that time I never discovered this particular kit. In fact like the Breda 88 I had never heard of it before. The EKW-C-3606 in all my WW2 aircraft knowledge escaped me.

I researched the plane and found various things about it’s history but what really sold me on wanting to build the plane was this video.

Everyone builds Pony’s and Spits. I do myself, we love them but the more unusual and less modeled aircraft the more it really appeals to me. This fit the bill nicely. I love the looks and the twin rudders.

I have bought quite a few of George’s kits and they are all delightful. Laser cut and very finely made. The plans are beautiful and any seasoned builder will have little difficulty making a fine model from any of his kits. You can find his website listed on our vendors page.

It is a short kit which means you supply the covering, make your own canopy, spinner and supply the 1/16th square stock. The coast of the short kit is 15 dollars which is quite a deal for a 25 inch span WW2 warbird like this.

I’m going to build this for indoor use mostly but it will make a great outdoor model too. Just no DT this time.

I want to mention that George is great at customer care going above board to answer any and all of your questions at such length and detail I have taken to printing them out and putting in my hard copy binder of “Things to Know ” about building and flying free flight model airplanes.

Day one 5-24-19

Got a couple hours into the kit build today. I have to say I really like the laser cutting and how well designed this kit is.

Got the fuselage started. No surprises just a straight forward build. Right now the fuse is just a box but there are laser cut formers that are added to the formers that provide the roundness of the fuselage top, bottom and sides.

5-26-19 Day 2


Day two on the build was about two more hours. At my studio the second story is set up for building and storing kits and materials for just my RC and FF model builds. I can sneak up there and take a break from building the big movie models down stairs. It’s cozy, carpeted and has excellent lighting and came with a wall of angled tables when I moved into the place 6 years ago now, hard to believe.

But in those two hours it’s quiet (except for music, yesterday it was Philip Glass) and peaceful so in that short time I manage to get a lot done. The place gives me real focus.

The fuse I thought was nice and square until I removed it from the board and found a twist in the nose. No problem I just got out my tiny scissors and did some snipping and readjusted things to my eye and got it square and true. I have found using the Exacto to do this can have disastrous results. Never cut towards yourself, yah right we do it anyway and zip Bing you’re bleeding. Worse the glue at the joint resists the blade going though it and you manage to trash the other longerhorns in the process. So I have found that the super sharp tiny little scissors do the best job. Or fine wire cutters because in most cases there will be one stringer that’s either too long or two short that’s causing the twist or distortion in you otherwise nice and square build.

I got as far as adding the side and top formers that give the plane its rounded shape. I used wood glue and while still wet added the longer horns long enough to line up all the slots. I learned long ago to do this when in one of my earlier builds that the longerhorns looked like the Mississippi river if you don’t.

It’s an exciting build (I guess they all are, are they not?) I can’t wait to get the rest of the formers on, top, bottom and sides. Then add the longerhorns to start getting a look at the lovely rounds in this fuselage.

More progress. Fuse is all framed up with the nose block and plug in place. Time to go to m LHS and pick up some more longerhorns and a solid balsa block to make the canopy form for vacuum forming. Another for the wood lathe so I can make the spinner. Meanwhile frame up the tails.


Got the wings started. This took all of an hour to do so far. The parts go together very well.


The wing is all framed up and fits quite well into the slot in the fuse. I have yet to put the cross stringers in place in the wing saddles but now that I see the wing actually slides in I’m good to place them in.


Lots done tail feathers, canopy plug and even a wood lathed spinner.

Here’s how I do canopies part 1.

This is a process some of you may not be aware of. It starts with the balsa plug but I don’t use it for making the actual canopy. I don’t like the rough look and sometimes wood grain that shows up in many canopies.
To fix this I make a mold using either RTV silicone (which is costly for a one off) or just use dental alginate (used for casting teeth for dental impressions). It’s cheap. Mix’s up like plaster. Sets up quickly and is very flexible like silicone. It is an organic material so it can only be used once to get a product and then you throw it away.

Because it’s flexible it will distort. So you need to make a mother mold around it which is easily done using either plaster bandage gauze or just plain plaster. When it sets up you can remove the balsa form from the mold easily and pour up either plaster or better yet and tool stone such as Ultracal 30 which is a very hard gypsum product which mixes in water same as plaster or any gypsum product such as plaster or tool stones. These stones are harder and more durable than plaster.

When that hardens you can sand this to a glassy perfect surface and you vacuum form you canopy with that. I wet sand it and buff it until it shines.

This all comes from my many years as a creature and model maker for the movies. But it all applies well to this hobby.

Already to cast

The impression material or alginate

This is the plaster bandage over the impression material to support it.

Ultracal 30 I by big bags of this to use for making molds for cast masks and foam rubber prosthetics but it has man other uses.

After the plaster bandage sets up I removed the mold from the casting surface. You can see the balsa form inside. All you do is get a fingernail into the balsa and pull.

Came out easy now I’m ready to mix the stone up and pour it into the mold.

Ultracal 30 in the molds sitting level. It takes about 30 minutes to set up.

30 minutes later I pulled the plug out. I’ll put this in a convection oven at 175 and bake it for about 4 hours to get all the moisture out before sanding.

More tomorrow.


I pulled a 060 canopy today to use as a cutting guide for the 020 I plan to pull next. With the thick canopy it retains it’s shape very well so when you trim it to fit the fuse you can be sure it’s cut right and fits correctly. I did a lot of trimming and grinding with the dremel. In the end it fit perfect to my amazement and will now use this thick and heavy canopy to cut the flexible and thin actual canopy.

How many of you remember the Mattel Vacuform Machine? I have several machines but this one from the 60s I still use for small parts like the spinner I plan do next.


I was able to pull the actual canopy but found I had no 020 available in my supply other than this small piece just large enough to accommodate the canopy. So I used a small vacuum form I have. A friend of mine Eliot Brown use to make these in 4 sizes and sent all four to me. I rarely use them as  the large industrial does all the big stuff but this little one came in handy.

This is the type where you place the tray in an oven, pull it out and drop it over the form and hit the dust collector which has more horsepower than a standard shop vac, sucked it right down and worked great.

Then I pulled the Mattel out and made the spinner. Worked like a charm.

Next I started in on those valve covers and got one done. Tomorrow I’ll do the other and the exhaust.

It’s about time to cover before I can go much further. I still need to to the retracted wheel blisters.


I’m back!

Finally I’m back from building the 2001 space station. What a long haul it was building that huge model from scratch.

So…George Bredehoft suggested that I sheet between the stingers the forward section of the fuse for better handling and mounting of the various scoops, intakes, and valve cover blisters on this model. He didn’t tell me what a pain in the rear it would be. Geez Louise what a slow me down but I finished it yesterday and it’s back to building and covering fun!


Started covering today and before I knew it it was covered. Pre-srinked only tomorrow I’ll dope the plane. I got to say this Volare kit George made uo is a dream build. No complaints here it make me look good but it’s really the kit.

Now that it is covered I can make the bottom intake scoops and ad the blisters and exhaust. 

The slide in wing fits like a glove and I did nothing to make it fit that well it’s all in the kit. Everything is true and level on all surfaces.

The underside is gray but will be eventually paint sky blue.


Well it looks rough at this stage but I got the exhaust built, reshaped the valve cover blisters again and the nose. Added the radiator intake underneath and the small scoop. The retracted landing gear and those damn wing filets. I hate them. I’m no darn good at them. I do alright with larger RC builds where I can use balsa but I find the bind paper challenging.

I doped everything and I still need to add some tissue over the filets. Then I can airbrush the green and shy blue to really make it pop. I plan to stencil and airbrush paint the markings.

Getting there. 





Got the plane painted with Testors Model Masters acrylics. To me it worth the weight increase over the doped colored tissue look. AUW is 1.75 oz. 

I gave it a test glide today and found it glides very well. It’s a natural born flyer. It went out level into a bit of a head wind and settled in to a nice decent and landing on the lawn. 

Still a lot to do. Painting the markings are next. I ended up masking the canopy as the trim tape just wasn’t cutting it for me. 

Will be adding the Gizmo Geezer Nose bearing and prop tomorrow too.







Prop is on. I could use the Gizmo Geezer nose button without have a huge gap between the spinner and the nose so I made a recessed ring and a standard bearing.


I thought I did all the graphics but unlike US planes most european aircraft in WW2 have their markings on both wings. So I have to add another to the right wing panel. I added the glare shield too. Tomorrow I hope to mark the ailerons, flaps, rudder and elevators.  




And I have the tires and wheels to paint too.

Hoping to fly this or trim fly it this Sunday.


Thanks for the suggestion. The test glides have been good as is but of course that can all change once I add power to the mix. 

I tried to remove the stab but t was getting scary. It doesn’t want to go peacefully.

Made a motor for it today. 4 strands and about 6 grams. Plane without motor was 2 oz. CG is right on the money without nose or tail weight. Imagine that.

Got more markings on she still needs lots of work but flyable for Sunday at the Grassy Knoll.